Blog: bespoke

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 4

The saga continues... a new pattern was drawn!

After Sunday's mess up, which I identified yesterday, last night I just had to set things straight! (Those of you who know me personally, might recognize this behavior. Some people even dare to say I might even be stubborn. Which, of course, I am not. Not a bit. No.)

So, here it is: A new pattern. Still on sh*te paper though. But at least I see no (obvious) errors - apart from two lines in the sleeve, that shouldn't be there - but that's more a cosmetic issue, which has no influence on the outcome later on.

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Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 3 - FUBAR!!!

FUBAR - as in "F*cked up beyond any repair".

I looked at it, and I just felt something was amiss. (As the Dutch say: "I felt it in my water!")

So, I laid out the pattern on the floor, with my notes next to it and started checking the shoulders - something wasn't right there. And yes, I did mess up up. Not once, but twice!

Unfortunately, these two errors have a massive impact on the rest of the pattern - which leaves me with exactly one option:

REDRAW

(In the picture below, you can see a few corrections in blue...) Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 2

Finished drawing the pattern.

Yes, another two hours gone ... or 15 minutes of Rory's instruction video. But now, the pattern has been drawn, next step would be cutting out the pattern - I will have to duplicate one piece of the sleeve before that, as the drawing is of the upper and under sleeve combined.

I have posted the below pictures of the complete pattern to the HTA Forum too, I hope one or two of the "pro's" will have time to take a look at it, to see if they obvious errors.

So far, this was really cool!

Bild ohne Beschreibung You can see that there were a lot of additional details added to the front part.

Bild ohne Beschreibung The upper and the under sleeve combined.

Bild ohne Beschreibung All parts...ready to be cut out!

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 1

So ... A major project I have been planning for ages (well, weeks, to be fair) has now finally taken off!

I have been a fan of the "freesewing.org" platform since a few years now, and I finished a few garments and flatcaps with that method. However, there were a few things missing: - the patterns to make a complete 2 or 3 piece suit: You can make trousers and waistcoats, the Jaeger jacket is no real "suit coat" (The Dutch say "colbert", the Germans call it "Sakko") though. - a better understanding of how to adapt and modify patterns, so they really, really fit.

So, I spent some time (hours) googling my way down the rabbit hole called "bespoke tailoring" and I somehow stumbled upon Mr. Rory Duffy's website, "The Handcraft Tailoring Academy" and his Youtube Video "The Making of a Savile Row Coat".

Two e-mails later, I signed up for his coat making course and sent off my order for a "HTA Coat Pack" at Dugdale Bros & Co, apparently one of the best cloth merchants. Rory uses some tools as well, unfortunately all with imperial scale (inches) instead of our -mainland Europe- centric system. Which is why I had to wait a while for my rulers, which I ordered at Fairgate Rule Company in the USA.

After several weeks of waiting, waiting, waiting ... yesterday evening I finally had the chance to clear the dining room table, roll out a big piece of paper, spread out all of my new fancy rulers and start drawing my pattern!

The following pictures show the results of roughly 1,5 - 2 hours of concentrated work, listening to Rory speak, see him draw lines here and there ... and then doing my own calculations and drawing similar lines. To put this into perspective: I needed 1,5 to 2 hours - Rory 15 minutes... He is the Master Tailor, after all!

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This is the back part of the pattern. On the left would be the middle back seam, on the right the side seam, where you can also see shoulder and the back of the armhole.

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This is the front part of the pattern - in progress. On the left you have the side seam, on the right the lapel- and buttons-side.

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And this is the view of the complete pattern - so far.