Blog: bespoke

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 8


Not the best of evenings, apparently. I really had difficulties with concentrating on "Fixing the coat" - ie. cutting out all the tiny bits and pieces, like the lining, pocket jettings, flaps etc.

I only managed the lining (for the body, the sleeves have their own lining!), the jettings (for the pockets), the pocket flaps and the "inbreast" - the small pocket on the left chest part. Due to a lack of concentration, I had to re-cut the pocket flaps. Lost focus and started cutting too early.

Thank goodness, I am rather slim and not really tall - which gave me a bit of cloth to spare... (Yes, this whole thing is really planning on using 99,9% of the materials - hardly anything is being thrown away!)

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Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 7

A bit delayed, a break was needed...

Today I finally got the time and energy needed to continue working on the coat. I am trying to discipline myself and only work on the coat, if I feel like I can concentrate on it fully. Especially in this phase, where every error could result in a complete disaster, I really can't afford a few moments of losing focus.

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The second part of the pattern, transferred to the cloth: Back part and both sleeves. As you can see, I had to redo the under sleeve, as I couldn't fit in the inlays otherwise. Let's hope this will not bite me in the near future, as I will need to cut out some bits and pieces from the remains, for pocket flaps and stuff...

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... as this is all that remains, after cutting all the parts out.

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 6

It's getting serious!

Tonight I transferred the first parts to the cloth and added seam allowances, inlays and whatnot.

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Yours truly is not sparing himself at all - he even had to get up on a chair to make the last picture! Oohh, the danger!

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Basics #1

Button holes!

A few days ago, a "colleague" posted pictures of his buttonholes. As we are trying to create a "bespoke" jacket, of course, the buttonholes are sewn in by hand!

If you have a few minutes to spare: This is roughly how it should be done:

This here is my very first attempt - not as desastrous as I expected, but still far from the standard I am aiming for! Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 5


Yesterday evening I cut out the pattern parts I already drew and added two pattern parts: - The under sleeve (Which is more or less the inner side of the sleeve, the part covers the inside of your arms) - The facing, which is the visible (front)side of the lapel (Revers in Dutch and German), around the fold - into the inside of the jacket. (Yes, I will add some photos later on)

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