Blog: bespoke

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 8

Focus!!!

Not the best of evenings, apparently. I really had difficulties with concentrating on "Fixing the coat" - ie. cutting out all the tiny bits and pieces, like the lining, pocket jettings, flaps etc.

I only managed the lining (for the body, the sleeves have their own lining!), the jettings (for the pockets), the pocket flaps and the "inbreast" - the small pocket on the left chest part. Due to a lack of concentration, I had to re-cut the pocket flaps. Lost focus and started cutting too early.

Thank goodness, I am rather slim and not really tall - which gave me a bit of cloth to spare... (Yes, this whole thing is really planning on using 99,9% of the materials - hardly anything is being thrown away!)

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 7

A bit delayed, a break was needed...

Today I finally got the time and energy needed to continue working on the coat. I am trying to discipline myself and only work on the coat, if I feel like I can concentrate on it fully. Especially in this phase, where every error could result in a complete disaster, I really can't afford a few moments of losing focus.

Bild ohne Beschreibung

The second part of the pattern, transferred to the cloth: Back part and both sleeves. As you can see, I had to redo the under sleeve, as I couldn't fit in the inlays otherwise. Let's hope this will not bite me in the near future, as I will need to cut out some bits and pieces from the remains, for pocket flaps and stuff...

Bild ohne Beschreibung

... as this is all that remains, after cutting all the parts out.

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 6

It's getting serious!

Tonight I transferred the first parts to the cloth and added seam allowances, inlays and whatnot.

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Yours truly is not sparing himself at all - he even had to get up on a chair to make the last picture! Oohh, the danger!

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Basics #1

Button holes!

A few days ago, a "colleague" posted pictures of his buttonholes. As we are trying to create a "bespoke" jacket, of course, the buttonholes are sewn in by hand!

If you have a few minutes to spare: This is roughly how it should be done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLudKgoSgLA

This here is my very first attempt - not as desastrous as I expected, but still far from the standard I am aiming for! Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 5

Cut!

Yesterday evening I cut out the pattern parts I already drew and added two pattern parts: - The under sleeve (Which is more or less the inner side of the sleeve, the part covers the inside of your arms) - The facing, which is the visible (front)side of the lapel (Revers in Dutch and German), around the fold - into the inside of the jacket. (Yes, I will add some photos later on)

Bild ohne Beschreibung