Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 9ish - to be continued!

FOCUS! Or f*ck up.

'xcuse my Klatchian, please, but after the small disaster with the pocket flaps, I actually provoked a bigger disaster with the next step. But we'll come to that later on.

So, I did end the coat fixing: Lining, sleeve lining etc. etc. ... it's all there. Didn't make any photos of that.

After that, it was time to cut the canvas. You might not know this, but for a bespoke coat, a lot of different fabrics are used, apart from the cloth itself, that is. These are samples of the fabrics I've used until now: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Both canvasses are used for the front. The small piece on the left will be used to stabilize the breast region, the bigger part next to it is supposed to cover the biggest part of the fronts. The "silesia" is a cotton fabric, used for pockets. On the right, you'll see a piece of domette, which is a very soft, woolly kind of fabric, which will also be used in the breast areas to pad those.

But alas: This is where I messed up. I cut the chest canvas in the wrong direction - I should have turned it 90° before cutting it.* As you can see, it is now too short to cover the full length if the fore part: Bild ohne Beschreibung

*Why? Because I need the stiffness of this canvas to work vertically - so it becomes "stand". The way I cut it, the lapels would not roll the way they should and the whole front would "collapse", as there would be no real support in there.

Ah well, I already ordered some new chest canvas with a shop in Bavaria - let's see if it will fit in, then I can cut those two pieces correctly.

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