Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 17

Basting, opening up, re-basting, press, repeat...

Yes, it has been rather quiet here. There's only slow progress made at the moment, as the actual fitting of the myself and the coat is ... well ... Industrious? Labour intensive? Starting to get at my fecking nerves? Yes, yes, all of the above!

The issues I could identify so far: 1. Too little front balance - in other words: Too much coat in the upper back, to little in the front, so I had to remove 1/2" from the back => That did improve the balance. Check! 2. Sloping shoulders causing excess cloth showing at the sides, just under the arms. I lowered the outer shoulder points, 1/2" more on the right side. => Less excess cloth showing! Check! 3. But still excess cloth to be seen. Reduced back and shoulder width at the side seams - it'll end up at somewhere between 2 and 3 inches => Even less excess cloth! Check! 4. But still some folds and creases to be seen. Lower the underside of the armholes. Which is obvious, because I lowered the outer shoulders, my armpits were now pushing down on the side body. => Lowering the undersides of the scyes by 1/4" or 1/2" - not done yet, but first tests looked good.

Sjeesh, that's a lot of text!

Pictures? Pictures!

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First attempt, April 4th. Look at the excess cloth at the sides!

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Balance corrected, first tests with sloped shoulders, April 10th.

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Todays progress compared with the one above

In big: Bild ohne Beschreibung

This does not yet reflect the modifications I tried out tonight, I haven't made any pics of that yet. More to follow soon(ish)

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