Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 16+

Pre-fit - and the way to where we are now

I haven't posted much since March 18th. Partially due to work and also some excruciating back pains. After the so-called canvassing preparations, the actual canvassing was due.

This canvassing is a very important step, as the canvas-construct I made (See Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 15 will now be attached to the cloth. Mistakes will result in wrinkles and possibly even pleats. And it looks shite too.

I guess I did okay: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne Beschreibung

After that, I sewed the edges of the forepart, so they show what the fore part-edges will look like later. The same was done with the bottom hem, so I can check the actual length of the coat.

After that, time to put the back and the foreparts together, first the sides and then the shoulders. Then one of the most important pieces of the coat was drafted and constructed: The undercollar. Took me 3 days to pad it. If you look closely on the next photos of the front, you see blue stitches on the collar. There must have been a few hundred at least!

Yesterday night, I basted the sleeves, so they are prepared for attaching to the body.

This afternoon, I basted in the collar and connected it to the lapels - also a very important step, as this defines how the lapels will roll: Will they stop just above, below or at the button?

It took me four attempts to get it where it is now...

So, lo and behold: A first "Pre-fitting", without sleeves, to find out if the body is going in the right direction...

Right side: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Left side: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Back side: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Front side: Bild ohne Beschreibung Bild ohne Beschreibung

Thanks to Vicki (Best wife of all) for taking the pictures and her patience hearing me yap about sewing this coat since weeks! Schliepdisch!

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