Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 12

Get your pockets! Double welt / jetted pockets!*

Note to self: When the iron is on, it tends to be hot. Not just warm. Hot. Keep your fingers away from it.

*Rory mentioned on our forum, that it should be "double jetted (IRL / UK) or double welt (US) pockets. No clue, why I started rambling about "welted" pockets...

Today I received my new body canvas, so I cut the fore part pieces again - they have soaked an hour and are now hanging out to dry. I will not be working with them for the next few days, as I am working on the pockets.

The coat will be having two big side pockets, with flaps, and - of course - an outbreast pocket. You know, for the "squares", which you can fold nicely and have them dangling out of your outbreast pocket.

First, the forepart has to be prepared: - Some fusible interfacing, to make the edges stronger and prevent them from tearing out. - Then some linen strips (called "holland" - quite disturbing for me...), also to make sure those pockets will be stable and robust.

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Then the flaps were made, out of the outer cloth (of course...), the same lining as the inside of the coat - and in between another piece of "silesia" (a rather sturdy cotton), to "give them some weight".

Apropos "weight": So far, all pieces together weigh around 850 grams!

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Then the welts had to be constructed. I did that before, so there were only some details Rory does differently - and probably better. Still: These are not the best welts I made so far. 7 out of 10, I'd say. They have not been sewn completely, so they might become better - or worse.

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