Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 10

Mark stitching.

Well, just because I couldn't finish my canvasses, that doesn't mean I couldn't do something else! In this case: Mark stitching. Which is done, to transfer marks and lines from the top cloth to the layer of cloth beneath it.

I'll be a lazy bugger and just quote the master, Rory Duffy, here: "Mark stitching may have many names such as thread marking or tailor’s tacks. It has only one purpose and that is to transfer the pattern to both sides of the cloth. It is used to indicate a seam run which has inlay adjacent to it so the maker knows where the seam finishes and the inlay starts. It is also used to transfer points such as the neck and shoulder points, balance lines and pocket positions. Great care should be taken when adding the mark stitches so that the pattern is followed closely when the garment is being assembled. Indeed the coat maker can greatly alter the fit of a garment if they fail to include the appropriate mark stitches."

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Fun job to do! Especially since it gave me the chance to practice using short needles and a thimble.

If you look closely at the middle part, right next to the "Huddersfield" ribbon (mirrored writing), you'll see rather long stitches - roughly 1,5 to 2 inches each. A great moment: This is the very, very first seam basted by me - it (temporarily) connects the two back part halves at the center back seam!

Kommentare: 0

Kommentare sind geschlossen.