Blog: Jeroen

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 20

Second fitting!

So, I've changed a few details: I've let out the back at the waist a bit, somewhere around 1/8" to 1/4" and I also corrected a minor glitch in the back hem, it's parallel now. I also corrected the right sleeve and gave it an extra inch, now it's the correct length, I suppose.

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne BeschreibungBild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Now, this might actually surprise you, but I am still not 100% happy with the results so far... I still see some folds in the back, around the upper arms - they have to go. The rest: Arms, front: I'm OK with that. Rory wrote in our forum that it'll take you 3 coats to get it all right ... so, there'll be enough fodder for this blog for years to come!

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 19

Finally - a coat that can be fitted!

It felt like ages - and probably it took that long - but finally, there's a coat that can be fitted, where only smaller details need to be fixed, but where the big issues have been solved!

What still can be seen on the following pictures: - The right sleeve is 1 inch short. That might be because my right arm is a bit longer, the shoulder hangs a bit lower and / or I worked a bit sloppy. Easy fix though! - You can see some wrinkling on the upper right arm, both at the sides and at the back of the upper arm. That might be, because the pitch of the sleeve isn't 100% correct, although I already lowered it by 1/4". It did look better before the pics were made, so it might be because of a more erect pose, while pics were taken... - The sleeve caps, all "puffy" - way too high for my liking! I will adjust that too.

But as far as the "body work goes": I think I am on the right track.


Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 18

The never-ending story...

So far, I did make some progress. I got back and sides sorted out, shoulders and sleeves basted in - it all starts to look nice and neat. Apart from this bastard pleat / fold at the top of my upper back.

As you can see, I've let out the center back seam (CBS) already, to no avail so far. Now I have asked for some assistance - let's see if someone has a helpful tip!

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 17

Basting, opening up, re-basting, press, repeat...

Yes, it has been rather quiet here. There's only slow progress made at the moment, as the actual fitting of the myself and the coat is ... well ... Industrious? Labour intensive? Starting to get at my fecking nerves? Yes, yes, all of the above!

The issues I could identify so far: 1. Too little front balance - in other words: Too much coat in the upper back, to little in the front, so I had to remove 1/2" from the back => That did improve the balance. Check! 2. Sloping shoulders causing excess cloth showing at the sides, just under the arms. I lowered the outer shoulder points, 1/2" more on the right side. => Less excess cloth showing! Check! 3. But still excess cloth to be seen. Reduced back and shoulder width at the side seams - it'll end up at somewhere between 2 and 3 inches => Even less excess cloth! Check! 4. But still some folds and creases to be seen. Lower the underside of the armholes. Which is obvious, because I lowered the outer shoulders, my armpits were now pushing down on the side body. => Lowering the undersides of the scyes by 1/4" or 1/2" - not done yet, but first tests looked good.

Sjeesh, that's a lot of text!

Pictures? Pictures!

Bild ohne Beschreibung

First attempt, April 4th. Look at the excess cloth at the sides!

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Balance corrected, first tests with sloped shoulders, April 10th.

Bild ohne Beschreibung

Todays progress compared with the one above

In big: Bild ohne Beschreibung

This does not yet reflect the modifications I tried out tonight, I haven't made any pics of that yet. More to follow soon(ish)

Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 16+

Pre-fit - and the way to where we are now

I haven't posted much since March 18th. Partially due to work and also some excruciating back pains. After the so-called canvassing preparations, the actual canvassing was due.

This canvassing is a very important step, as the canvas-construct I made (See Bespoke - The making of a Savile Row coat - Part 15 will now be attached to the cloth. Mistakes will result in wrinkles and possibly even pleats. And it looks shite too.

I guess I did okay: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Bild ohne Beschreibung

After that, I sewed the edges of the forepart, so they show what the fore part-edges will look like later. The same was done with the bottom hem, so I can check the actual length of the coat.

After that, time to put the back and the foreparts together, first the sides and then the shoulders. Then one of the most important pieces of the coat was drafted and constructed: The undercollar. Took me 3 days to pad it. If you look closely on the next photos of the front, you see blue stitches on the collar. There must have been a few hundred at least!

Yesterday night, I basted the sleeves, so they are prepared for attaching to the body.

This afternoon, I basted in the collar and connected it to the lapels - also a very important step, as this defines how the lapels will roll: Will they stop just above, below or at the button?

It took me four attempts to get it where it is now...

So, lo and behold: A first "Pre-fitting", without sleeves, to find out if the body is going in the right direction...

Right side: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Left side: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Back side: Bild ohne Beschreibung

Front side: Bild ohne Beschreibung Bild ohne Beschreibung

Thanks to Vicki (Best wife of all) for taking the pictures and her patience hearing me yap about sewing this coat since weeks! Schliepdisch!